October 19, 2017

I managed to send one 5.8 and continued my work on my first 5.9. I am still struggling with technique but I'm consciously practicing it. I'm trying to work on hip to wall and center of gravity. I even picked up some balance things. I read most of "The Self Coached Climber" by Dan Hague and Douglas Hunter. I found myself at the least thinking about some of the techniques and observations from the book which is encouraging.

Anyway, I started out working on This 5.9 after my warm up. I managed to come up with this DIY cell phone stand to hold up my phone to video things without having to have a third party. The down fall is that the distance makes me smaller, but it works still.
 

I have been working on the blue 5.9 for a few months but stepped away to work on the red one I accomplished on Monday. I was happy that getting over that overhang was fairly quick and easy this time.

After that overhang I was able to get up the middle section ok but as I did with the red one, I got stuck at the bottom of that crazy overhang at the top. The thing I'm struggling with is finding my balance in order to let go with one hand to grab the next hold. I came down after falling a few times. I couldn't stop spinning in circles in the air so getting back on the wall wasn't happening this time. 

I then moved onto this 5.8 white problem. This one I fell several times, for 8 minutes to be exact.

It was extremely difficult to get over that first overhang but once I did I was golden. It took a lot of energy to get over that overhang but it still ended with success.