Today was definitely an eventful day. I was able to get the Mustang red 5.8 recorded! That is here.
I also started on a new one which is a step up, a 5.9. I still have not finished the blue 5.9 but this one is definitely different. This is the first climb I've ever done that is a lot of technique and less strength. It requires flagging and twisting and lots of hip to wall. I was definitely doing better with that, but the flagging I still don't understand. Using the wall instead of a foot hold is important to learn but I'm not getting it yet. Hopefully I will soon. Anyway, the whole video for the 5.9 is here. It's long and has a lot of swinging. Would be a good idea to just skim past the swinging. That goes for the 5.8 too.
I was able to do some flagging but not a lot and there was still too much straight on. I don't know how to change that but I guess it'll just take more practice. I should try the traversing exercise where you are practicing flagging. I'm hoping that will be helpful. It basically is traversing a wall and only having one foot on a foot hold at a time. Otherwise in every movement you are to flag in some way. It seems like the hardest thing in the world when you are trying to. Likely because it's scary. While flagging helps with center of balance and the ability to stay strong and I definitely felt that, it's still scary to not have concrete footholds under both feet. I'll get it soon!
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