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Sprained finger August 17

September 29, 2017

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Sigh... three weeks, no climbing...

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October 19, 2017

I managed to send one 5.8 and continued my work on my first 5.9. I am still struggling with technique but I'm consciously practicing it. I'm trying to work on hip to wall and center of gravity. I even picked up some balance things. I read most of "The Self Coached Climber" by Dan Hague and Douglas Hunter. I found myself at the least thinking about some of the techniques and observations from the book which is encouraging. Anyway, I started out working on This 5.9 after my warm up. I managed to come up with this DIY cell phone stand to hold up my phone to video things without having to have a third party. The down fall is that the distance makes me smaller, but it works still. I have been working on the blue 5.9 for a few months but stepped away to work on the red one I accomplished on Monday. I was happy that getting over that overhang was fairly quick and easy this time. After that overhang I was able to get up the middle se...

October 16 “Mustang”

This is that Red 5.8 ! This took so long! I couldn’t actually get a video because it was just Marie and I but we don’t always need a video or picture. Writing about it works too! So it took me several tries to get past this problem. When I first started it was that first overhang that was the killer. The first time I grabbed this I ended up hanging there swinging and losing grip. I learned that turning your hip to the wall was crucial for several moves on the wall. It was this climb that shifted the way I climb, hip to wall started becoming much more frequent and enabled me to do moves and problems I couldn’t do otherwise. I couldn’t get back up for a few sessions. That overhang was just ridiculous. When I finally grabbed it and had it secured, feet planted on holds below, I faced this angry hold Which I couldn’t grab for another several sessions. Once I grabbed that I was able to pull myself up and over the overhang! VICTORY number 1! So I climbed up the ...

Injuries that Hinder Climbing

One thing about climbing and me is my tendency to injure myself or get injured. I'm so very injury prone and every time I start something physical I injure myself. Climbing puts a lot of strain on your body and that plus my body seeming to get injured easily, I was bound to get injured... three times now.. even though one of them wasn't actually from climbing though it has hindered my climbing ability. complain.. complain.. complain right? It has been highly discouraging. In just one year I have felt like giving up more than a handful of times. First my left middle finger, than my right ring finger and I hurt my shoulder lifting a TV. While my shoulder is better than it initially was I can still feel the twinge of pain that says it's not okay yet when I lift a simple box or several bags of groceries. In research, I have found that often you will injure the muscles and tendons that are opposite the ones you use often. Climbing is definitely a full body workout but it d...

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Sprained finger August 17

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